![]() | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
underfloor heatingThere are two types of underfloor heating - wet systems where warm water circulates through polyethylene pipes and electric systems which is electric matting. Both methods are installed within the floor or wall structure. Except for very small areas, IHS supply wet systems only - they are far more energy and cost efficient.
conventional or underfloor heating?
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
![]() |
| Conventional Heating System | Underfloor Heating System |
Underfloor heating eliminates uncomfortable hot or cold air flows around a room and gives even comfortable heating. The warmest part of the room is next to the floor - not the ceiling.
The heat produced from underfloor or wall heating comprises 70% radiant heat and 30% convection heat.
| Floor heating is as close as you can get to the ideal heating curve. | ![]() |
Remember - all new houses have moisture - get the heating running beforehand. It's good for the entire fabric of the building.
To achieve optimal heat output and temperatures, you require good contact between the floor structure and floor covering with no air gaps.
Generally, thick cork and soft woods are not suitable for floor heating. Watch out for some of the new laminate boards and how they're fixed to the floor. If the underlay is too thick, it will insulate your floor and block heat output. Underlay should not exceed 2mm.
All stone, slate, ceramic and quarry tiles allow excellent heat transfer and output when laid on concrete and screed.
Linoleum and vinyl should be no thicker than 5mm.
Note: when gluing lino/amtigo to the concrete or screed, ensure the concrete or screed is dry and all moisture is eliminated. It may be beneficial to have the heating running to help dry out the floor. Failure to do this can cause condensation to the underside of the flooring.
All carpets are suitable, however, the total carpet thickness should not exceed 12mm. If the carpet has a foam backing it should be no more than 3mm thick. The function of underlay is to prevent wear and tear on the underside of the carpet. A thinner type of no more than 3mm should be used with no air pockets being allowed to develop. The carpet can be laid loose, tensioned or glued to the floor - if glued, the heat output is higher.
Hardwood flooring: wood should have a moisture content of no higher than 10%. The total wood thickness should not exceed 22mm. Ensure the concrete or biscuit is dry and all moisture is eliminated prior to applying ANY wood finish. Start up the heating to dry out the concrete or screed. You should refer to floor suppliers' guidelines for advice on applying adhesive.
There are numerous different floor constructions and at IHS we have suggested methods of installing underfloor heating for almost every construction situation.
Concrete and screed: due to the low temperatures produced from the heat pump, concrete and screeds are the ideal combination with geothermal heat pumps. Basically by dumping this low temperature water into the thermal mass, which is in turn the heat emitter, the building itself becomes the buffer and heat sink.
Joisted floors with underfloor heating: Using a conventional boiler with underfloor heating presents no difficulty as the temperature output is 70C and any of the above mentioned floor coverings can be used.
If a heat pump is the main heat source, the temperature output is lower - approximately 45C. In this case, Lewis Plates can be installed on the joisted floor to allow screed to be poured thus creating a higher thermal mass. If this option doesn't suit, a hardwood floor covering over the full joisted area can be used provided there is no sub-floor. (The heat from the heat pump can penetrate through hard wood due to the fact that it doesn't require a chipboard subfloor which would absorb most of the heat).
For a detailed explaination of the options available select your floor type:
If you don't see what you need, please contact us.
IHS Standard Pipe |
IHS Heavy Duty Pipe |
%20(large).jpg)
| PE-RT Pipe Test Results SKZ, KIWA/KOMO | ||
| temp | pressure/bar | lifespan |
| 110ºC | 8.2 | 1.2 years |
| 70ºC | 18.8 | 50 years |
| 60ºC | 21.7 | 100 years |
Aluflex, similar to other brands on the UK market, has a PEX plastic outer layer with an aluminium middle layer and a PEX inner layer. It's a more rigid pipe and once bent, stays in place. However, this pipe only has a ten-year guarantee compared to a fifty-year guarantee using IHS standard or heavy duty pipe.
NB! Aluflex pipe is being used in concrete floor structures - IHS do NOT recommend this due to the fact that aluminium does not have the same stretch ability as the PEX outer and inner layer. This could give problems with concrete floors when the floor cracks, however it is very suitable for the aluminium plate system and for connecting radiators.
Whether it's a self build house, a hospital or a district housing heating system, every one of our completed projects is supplied with a full colour CAD drawing. Our CAD drawings are produced in-house by a member of our skilled design team; they're tailored to suit each individual project and contains all the wiring and plumbing schematics to suit whatever type of boiler configuration you have.
The CAD drawing is your system guarantee supplied by us - our guarantee that you'll have an underfloor system that delivers what we promise. Click here to see PDF example of a typical CAD drawing.